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(百家百味)当常德米粉遇上贵州“荣膳荷”

  • 2026-02-13 05:28:26
(百家百味)当常德米粉遇上贵州“荣膳荷”
宽大的碗，浓郁的汤，薄薄的羊肉片，红红的辣子油，把圆润通透的白色米粉，“妆扮”、“烘托”得活脱脱、亮闪闪、香喷喷，当这种没有人能够抗拒的奇妙组合呈现在你眼前时，你眼睛里反射出来的光，可能会比那红红的辣子油更加炙热……
       
高山街的“荣膳荷”粉馆
01
位于武陵区高山街的“荣膳荷羊肉粉”馆，开张已近一年，一脸和气，从贵州遵义过来的田老板兴冲冲地告诉我，平时每天可卖粉二、三百斤，节假日可卖三、四百斤，堂食客人不少，叫外卖的也很多，在有着吃米粉习惯的常德开贵州的品牌店，搞对头了呢！
环顾四周，小店亮敞，布局合理，一次可容纳二十来人，在寸土寸金、“群雄纷争”的高山街，算是位置比较好、装修比较好的门店了。门边一大锅热气腾腾的羊肉汤，柜内一盒盒与外卖配套的辣子油，墙上一块块别具特色的宣传牌，无不让每一个进店的客人心情向好，食欲倍增。
       
食客评价与粉馆渊源
02
“羊肉嫩、有鲜味而又不膻，辣油香、有辣味而又不辣”，在市三人民医院全科医学科住院的一位老人，一边嗦粉，一边慢条斯理的和我搭腔，“它开业时我就来吃了，吃多了牛肉粉，换换口味好呢！”我点头称是，又继而向田老板打听粉馆的“前世今生”，方才得知“荣膳荷”发源于六盘水，故而又称为“水城羊肉粉”。
这个贵州的米粉品牌创立于2006年，但据说其历史可追溯至上世纪八十年代的水城小吃店，人们用新鲜羊大骨加入精制的中草药和香料熬汤，配上当地特有的米线，烹制成一道“香、麻、醇”的特色饮食。
       
招牌羊肉粉的独特风味
03
我花13元钱点了一碗“招牌”羊肉粉，果然汤香鲜味美，粉爽滑劲道，炸得泛着红光的油辣椒，看上去有点可怕，入口后却既香且脆，另加上几片酸包菜“作陪”，真的是别有一番滋味。满满的一碗粉，完全印证了墙上灯框里宣称的“碗要烫、水要开、汤要滚、量要足”的“四大要求”。再一细问，得知用来作浇头的黑山羊来自贵州，米粉则是就地取材。田老板解释说，本来贵州那边细长的干米线劲道更好，然而大部分常德人还是习惯吃本地的鲜湿米粉，于是他们做了些许改良，不过人们要吃泡发了的干米线，他们也可以提供……
       
美食的传承与变通
04
一句话引发了我的思考 : 是啊，真正能扎根人心、站稳市场的美食，从来都不应该是固执地坚守“原产地”的刻板标签，而要懂得在传承和传播中善于变通，既不失本色，又能“入乡随俗”，这断然不是对传统的无原则妥协，而是对所在地食客味蕾的尊重，也是对饮食文化实事求是的理解，这不，正是因为如此，“荣膳荷”逐步在常德站住了脚跟。从网上信息看，除高山街这家店外，大常德还有另外两家连锁店。
       
饮食文化的包容与新生
05
走出店门，一眼瞟见左边斜对门有一家XX螺蛳粉店，我步入店门，特殊的气味扑面而来，正是这种特殊的味道，让它红遍了大江南北，常德城区也有好几家这样的门店，其知名度应该远远超过“荣膳荷”，生意应该也不错。此时店内没有客人，老板独自一人忙碌着，不停地向十来个打包盒里投放打底的各种食材。我问老板用的什么粉，答曰是泡发的广西干粉，我又问试用过常德的鲜湿米粉吗，答曰没有，又问可以试试吗，答曰没想过……
我很想和老板再聊聊，见他忙前忙后，也不便继续打扰。
当常德米粉遇上“荣膳荷”，常德人多了一个选择，“荣膳荷”多了一些拓展，这是地域风味的碰撞与相融，更是饮食文化的包容与新生。这种“变通”，于人，无疑浓厚了一方水土的烟火气，于己，不也是体现出一种生存和发展的智慧么！
类似这样的“嫁接组合”，可不可以更多一些呢？在米粉行业，在米粉以外的行业……
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.001060s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=e460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001421s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.005220s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000693s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001297s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000627s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001728s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 462069 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.009706s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1770981097 WHERE `id` = 462069 [ RunTime:0.004675s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000741s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 462069 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001252s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 462069 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.002095s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 462069 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.013403s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 462069 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.004447s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 462069 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.009388s ]
0.233200s